Wiring
The next step is to wire everything together. This involved
- Rewiring the NES to utilize Japanese Audio from the Cart
- Lighting the Bard and other FX
- Hooking up the top controller with a button switch so the front port is still usable
- Adding two additional RCA audio outputs on the back of the NES (for recording or whatever)
- Utilizing the potentiometers (the knobs) to do neat stuff
I didn’t give this part of the job enough respect when I started. There was a steep learning curve on finding the right voltage for lights, dealing with attenuation in audio, and finding out that not all parts are created equal.
I started with the controller and lights. Amazon had a string of battery powered white LEDs that I used for this. It used 3 AA batteries (1.5v x 3 = 4.5 volts) which told me in my amateur mind that its “close enough” to 5 volts. 5 volts is key since thats what the majority of the NES runs at inside. I hacked off the battery cover, wire it to the NES. and glue the LEDs around the edge of the Bard. I also replaced the power LED in the NES with a pink one (because Jake).
Next, I wire the button to the top mounted controller, feed it voltage so it illuminates when the top controller is active, and secure it in place.
Lastly, I wired up the knobs to control the audio. I ordered a pack of ten potentiometers and found that about half of them failed. This was quite frustrating because I’m not an expert and figured that the issues where my fault. I stayed up all night trying to solve this problem and ended up succumbing to the demands of a pinched back nerve. The down time gave me clarity and I came to the conclusion that the parts must be bad. I tackled the knobs again and sure enough, I had faulty parts. So glad I ordered extras.
I secured the wiring, closed the system, and tested it. Success!